Mera Peak (6,476m) and Island Peak (6,189m) presents an awesome chance to ascend two higher peaks set fairly close geographically but are divided by the gigantic peak series that separates the Khumbu from Hongu Valleys. Mera and Island Peaks Climbing also provides a chance to traverse the remote and striking Amphu Labtsa Pass (5,780m). Specifically, Mera peak climbing offers amazing views to the Langtang region in the west from Kangchenjunga in the east while Island Peak is dwarfed by the massive Lhotse Face to the north.
To start our Mera and Island Peaks Climbing, we will fly to Lukla from Kathmandu and then start walking. Walking ahead from Chutok La pass, we will trek to Pangkong and go across Col Khari La. En-route, we will also pass all the way through rock-strewn settings. Moreover, we will walk by lovely meadows and woody area filled with blue Himalayan pines and rhododendron trees to get to Khothey. With proper adaptation at Tangnag, we will go up next to the side moraine of the Dig Glacier and arrive at Khare from where we will trek to Mera Base Camp. From the base camp, walk further on to the High Camp which presents wonderful views of massive mountains like Chamlang (7290m), Baruntse (7220m), Everest (8848m), Makalu (8475m), Lhotse (8501m) etc. to experience one of the highlights of expedition, we will climb to Mera Peak summit(6476 m).
Before climbing Island peak, we will walk ahead and go across the Amphu Labtsa (5,780m) to reach Island Peak Base Camp (5,000m) passing pass glacier with 40° angled slope. With another acclimatization day, we will trek to Island Peak high camp (5,600m) from where we will climb to Island Peak lying 6189m high ascending the rock gorge to get to an edge line and reach at the muzzle of the glacier and experience one of the unforgettable moments.
Just let Rock Everest Team know about it if you are interested in Mera and Island Peaks Climbing. We will rightly plan the trip in a best possible way satisfying all your needs.
When you reach Tribhuwan International Airport (KTM) in Kathmandu, one of the airport representatives from Rock Everest Team will welcome you and escort you to the hotel. Then, you will check into the hotel, and relax at hotel. Overnight at hotel.
This is a day to get prepared for Mera Peak and Island Peak climbing. You can also experience sightseeing tour around UNESCO World heritage Sites in Kathmandu. You will visit Swayambhunath Temple which is the sign of religious tolerance between Hindus and Buddhists in Nepal. Also, you will travel around Kathmandu Durbar Square which has different tourists appealing places like Hanumandhoka- old royal palace, Shiva Parbati Temple, Taleju Temple, the home of Living Goddess and some other temples spread around. We will likewise visit Boudhanath Stupa, one of the biggest stupas in the planet where you will see prayer flags, small chortens and peaceful settings. Visiting Pashupatinath Temple is another mesmerizing part which is dedicated to Lord Shiva. Overnight at hotel, breakfast included.
We head to the airport early in the morning and take a flight to Lukla. The air route is fascinating in itself, flying above the greenery and White Mountains. Upon arrival, the guide will brief you and introduce our porters. We then begin our trek to the Chutok La pass (2945). Overnight stay at Guesthouse, breakfast, lunch and dinner included.
Today, we trek from Chutenga and ascend steep to cross Zatrawala Pass (4610m.) and continue to Zatrabok (4704m) enjoying the spectacular views of Numbur Himal, Kongdi RI, Karyolang peak and many others. Overnight stay at Guesthouse, breakfast, lunch and dinner included.
Today we head towards Kothe. We take a steep descent trail through the juniper and rhododendron forest to reach Kothe. Overnight stay at Guesthouse, breakfast, lunch and dinner included.
After enjoying our lunch at Kothe, we head towards Tangnang (4356m),(Sabal Tsho-Lake) penetrating the Hinku valley. The trial gradually ascends offering the scenic view of Kusum Kanguru. Overnight stay at Guesthouse, breakfast, lunch and dinner included.
Today is set aside for acclimatization. We rest at Tangnang. We wander around the valley and explore the local culture. We enjoy the scenic view of stunning peaks and glaciers. Overnight stay at Guesthouse, breakfast, lunch and dinner included
We climb up along the lateral moraine of the glacier. It provides an interesting view of Mera Peak. Overnight stay at Guesthouse, breakfast, lunch and dinner included.
We take rest at Khare. This is another day set aside for acclimatization. We prepare ourselves for climbing Mera peak. Overnight stay at Guesthouse, breakfast, lunch and dinner included.
We progress along the snowy glacier and approach the pass. Overnight at tented at camp | Meals: high foods included.
From Mera Base Camp, we will walk further on from the High Camp which lies at the elevation of 5800m. This day presents breathtaking experience of eye-catching views of enormous mountains which is more or less 7000 meters including Makalu (8475m), Everest (8848m), Chamlang (7290m), Baruntse (7220m), Lhotse (8501m) etc. We will also get to see the peaks like Ama Dablam, Kantega, Cho Oyu and more set on the west side. As we get to the High camp (5800m), we will set our camp. Overnight at tented at camp | Meals: high foods included.
Our Sherpa will wake you up at about 2 am with hot tea and we all will have a high energy meal before starting the summit ascent of Mera Peak. Starting through the main glacier, crossing to the south side we approach the snow hump-back ridge. This part of the route is not technical but 30 degree slopes are still tough. The slope steepens for a section behind the ridge and then you swing diagonally westward. The summit comes back into view and you are on the level summit ridge. At the foot of the final steep ascent you will attach to a fixed rope laid by your guide and use your ice axe and a jumar to climb the final 30 meter 55 degree pitch to reach Mera Peak’s summit. A spectacular panorama greets you with clear views over to Everest. Once you’ve had chance to take this all in and congratulate yourself on an amazing achievement, and then we will descend into the Hongu Valley, down to Kongma Dingma. Overnight at tented at camp | Meals: high foods included.
We continue to trek through the Hongu Valley, a very high and remote valley with no inhabitants. Real wilderness, real remoteness can be felt in this beautiful valley. Huge flanks of Mt. Chamlang dominate on our left, and the spire of Baruntse comes into view beyond. The environment is remarkably compassionate, especially considering we are actually heading directly into the very epicenter of the highest group of mountains in the world. The valley floor remains broad and straight, only gradually rising to the blind alley of peaks ahead. It is almost a shock to realize that the two majestic mountains we are heading straight towards are none other than Everest and Lhotse. We climb steadily up to and just beyond Seto Pokhari and camp there. Seto Pokhari means White Lake, the water in the lake is white may be due to ice conditions. Overnight at tented at camp | Meals: high foods included.
We trek through one of the remotest part of the Himalaya today. We rarely meet any trekkers if it’s not a high tourist season. We enjoy and experience the wilderness of the Honku Valley We walk through the high altitude trail from Seto Pokhari to Amphu Lapcha high Camp. On the trail today, on our right is Mt. Chamlang (7321m) with hanging glaciers on its South-West and North-West faces. Passing beneath the giant west face of Chamlang we follow the Hongu Khola and finally the Hongu Glacier to the religious site of Panch Pokhri (five lakes). Today we trek to Amph Labsta’s south side Base Camp and come face to face with this gigantic and technical obstacle that we must cross tomorrow along with 360 degree view of great mountains. Overnight at tented at camp | Meals: high foods included.
Today, we have a real day of challenge ahead of us. On the South side the pass is an interesting traverse of scree slopes and layered glacier wall that we have to ascend. We trek along a fantastic icefall to the crest of the pass at 5850m. Here we have stunning views of Island Peak, Lhotse and Nuptse looming over the Imja Valley. The descent down to the valley is steep with a section that we negotiate by abseiling; looking back it will be quite an awesome feeling. We carry on descending on moraine to camp beside the Imaja Glacier and enter the Imja Valley where we spend the night. Overnight at tented at camp | Meals: high foods included.
It’s the easy gradual trail up to Island Peak Base Camp. We cross a river and follow the valley for approx. 3 hour. Passing beneath the magnificent south face of Lhotse. Base camp is by the side of the Imja glacier, below steep grassy slopes which mark the start of the climb on Island Peak. From Island Peak Base Camp the trail is moderately steep. First, we climb south then turn east to the contour of the valley. We then walk on a zigzag path below the southern flank of Lhotse Glacier moraine. We continue walking on a pleasant trail along a streamside. At southeast, we see the Amphu Labtsa route. A network route through the Imja and Lhotse glacier moraines leads to a spacious valley (Pareshaya Gyab) nearby the southwest side of Island Peak where we will set our tents. After a brief rest, our climbing guide will instruct you the methods of using climbing equipment and some technical climbing skills. Along with practical knowledge on using climbing gears like ice axe, climbing boots and crampons, harness, ascender, etc., you will also learn using ropes to go up and down. Although it is not mandatory to have prior training for Island Peak Climbing, we strongly believe that some training will boost your confidence and climbing skills to increase the chances of scaling the summit safely together with a fun experience. Overnight at tented at camp | Meals: high foods included.
The push for the summit starts very early in the morning, mostly it starts before 3 a.m. in the morning. The climbing guide will fix all the safety lines wherever necessary and will be close taking care of you. A steep long ascent finally ends at the top and after a short stay at the top to enjoy the panorama of mountains; we climb down to Island Peak Base Camp then Chhukung village. Overnight at Guesthouse, breakfast, lunch and dinner included.
This is a spare day to avoid a bad weather problem before reaching to the peak of the summit. In case of good weather and trouble free climbing we do not need this day. Overnight at tented camp/teahouse, full board meals included.
Leaving the mountains behind us our descent takes us through various towns of Orsho, Somare and Pangboche, Tengboche then Pungki Thanka and complete steep to Kyangjuma, and easier trail to Namche. Overnight at guesthouse, breakfast, lunch and dinner included.
The trek continues along the Dudh Kosi River to the small mountain airstrip at Lukla, where you will catch your return flight to Kathmandu. Overnight at guesthouse, breakfast, lunch and dinner included.
30-minutes amazing scenic fly back to Kathmandu. Overnight at hotel, breakfast included.
Spend the day in Kathmandu, to rest or to explore, as per your inclination. Overnight at hotel, breakfast included.
Approximately 3 hours before the scheduled flight, a representative from the Rock Everest Team will take you to the airport.