Island Peak / Imjatse Himal rise high within beautiful and scenic Imjatse valley at 6,160 m and 20,328 ft high, actually a broken ridge flank of Lhotse and Nuptse mountains, straight south-east of Mt. Everest.Where some maps and adventure guide books have listed as 6,189 m and 20,305 ft, high, we have made the height at 6,160 m high as listed with NMA (Nepal Mountaineering Association) that controls most of trekking peaks of the country.
The local name Imjatse Himal rather than popular Island Peak which was first christened as Island as it appears like an Island in the midst of magnificent Imjatse valley way back in 1953 by British First Everest Expedition. Island Peak-Imjatse Himal Climbing grade as PD + “Per Difficule” we have rated from French and Swiss Alpine Climbing Classification Systems widely used around world-wide on alpine style climb.
PD + grading means walking and climbing on moraine, ice, rocks and snow a straightforward climb to the summit top with some tough technical effort to encounter, where all climbers requires adequate climbing gear for safe successful climb and descend. Island Peak / Imjatse Himal Climbing adventure starts from busy and interesting town Lukla at an altitude of 2,820 m high with unique short airstrip fit for smaller airplanes.
Landing at Lukla after flying from Kathmandu as walk begins heading past many nice Sherpa farm villages and into forested area to reach Sagarmatha National Park designated as World Heritage Sites. Walk continues heading much higher above Dudh Kosi River valley to reach at famous Namche Bazaar the gate town and large village of Khumbu area, where various adventure passes through Namche with rest days for acclimatization at the height of 3,440 m high.
An exciting place where the word Bazaar tagged as Namche holds busy and colorful market once a week in Saturday, an interesting bazaar to observe and witness local Sherpa people culture and custom. From Namche Bazaar with pleasant moment with short hike to view points, walk takes you on scenic trail with ups to beautiful spot at Thyangboche and the monastery, surrounded by green tree lines with fantastic panorama of snow capped peaks with Mt. Everest and magnificent looking Amadablam.
After Thyangboche walk leads beyond green vegetation and tree lines to reach closer to high arid mountain region at number one Mt. Everest base camp, with time here to enjoy marvelous scenery of high giant mountains with Khumbu Ice-Fall and glaciers. Adventure takes you on top Kalapathar Hill at 5,545 m the highest spot on trekking before the climb of Island Peak, facing breathtaking panorama of high peaks with Mt. Everest and Mt. Pumori at close distance.
With much exercise on walks to Everest base camp and climb of Kalapathar rocky hill then head towards our main target and highlight to reach at the base of Island Peak / Imjatse Himal as route takes you down towards Imjatse valley past Dingboche and Chukung settlements. Allowing days for practice and preparation using high / advance camp then enjoy great strenuous climb and adventure to the top of Island Peak / Imjatse Himal after negotiating few technical sections and climbing on main ropes to reach the summit of Island Peak.
At the summit feeling in high spirit where series of mountains surrounds you with Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Lhotse Shar, Amadablam with views of Makalu in the east and as far towards Baruntse Himal. Enjoying an adventure of a lifetime with glorious experience descend safely to base camp then on the road to Namche and Lukla walking past nice settlement of Chukung, Dingboche and Pangboche village to reach at scenic Thyangboche and its impressive monastery.
Back into green vegetation and tree lines as route follows with much downhill to reach past Sagarmatha National Park and then completing our wonderful trek and climb in Lukla, with scenic short flight back to Kathmandu, where our overwhelming adventure on Island Peak / Imjatse Himal Climbing concludes.
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu 1,320 m and transfer to Hotel.
Day 02: Full day in Kathmandu trek and climb preparation.
Day 03: Fly to Lukla 2,820 m & trek to Phakding 2,640 m – 04 hrs.
Day 04: Trek to Namche Bazaar 3,440 m – 06 hrs.
Day 05: Rest day at Namche Bazaar for acclimatization and local excursion.
Day 06: Trek to Thyangboche 3,867 m – 05 hrs.
Day 07: Trek to Pheriche 4,240 m – 05 hrs.
Day 08: Rest day at Pheriche for acclimatization and excursion.
Day 09: Trek to Lobuche 4,930 m – 05 hrs.
Day 10: Trek to Gorakshep 5,170 m and Everest Base Camp 5,364 m-06 hrs.
Day 11: Hike to Kalapathar 5, 545 m trek to Chukung 4,735 m – 06 hrs.
Day 12: Trek to Island Peak Base Camp 5,200 m /17,060 ft – 04 hrs.
Day 13: At Island Peak base for climbing practice and preparation.
Day 14: To Island Peak High / Advance Camp 5,400 m – 04 hrs.
Day 15: Ascent Island Peak 6,160 m and descend to base camp-08 hrs.
Day 16: Spare and contingency day in case of bad weather conditions.
Day 17: Return trek to Pangboche 3,900 m via Dingboche -06 hrs.
Day 18: Trek to Namche Bazaar – 06 hrs.
Day 19: Trek to Lukla – 06 hrs.
Day 20: Fly to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.
Day 21: In Kathmandu free day for individual activities.
Day 22: Final International departure from Nepal.
Best Time and Season for Island Peak / Imjatse Himal climb and treks:
March to May months during spring season will be the best time for Island Peak Climb and trekking to reach Island Peak and Everest base camp, most days are clear with enough sunshine but cold in the morning and night time, depending upon altitude wise can snow sometimes around high Khumbu valley and on climb to Island Peak.
Spring time days are longer with longer sun-light hours, for lovely walks within forested area with wild-flowers in full bloom especially rhododendron of various species which is also the national flower of the country.
Next best months from September to early December around autumn / fall and pre-winter season, where days are crystal clear for walks and climb with bright starry nights, but shorter day-light hours due to autumn and beginning of winter times, can expect freezing temperatures especially in the morning and night time as well in shade, could snow on trek and climb around much higher ground.
People and Culture:
Island Peak / Imjatse Himal Climbing and treks located within high Khumbu area of Everest region populated by Sherpa the highlanders of Everest and Eastern Himalaya, men-folks are famous as pioneering mountaineering guides and trekking since mountaineering expedition began in Nepal Himalaya way back in 1950’s.
Walk takes you around beautiful looking farm villages where Sherpa are interwoven with strong Buddhism religion which you can notice on walks lined with religious symbols and monuments on trails near villages.
The word Sherpa comes from Tibetan origin means Sher for East and Pa for people, where Sherpa originated in Eastern Tibet and migrated some 200 years ago around Nepal high mountainous region.
Impressive tour of villages and old monasteries of great interest festooned with colorful culture and custom, main settlements within Namche Bazaar, Khumjung, Khunde, Thame, Thyangboche, Pangboche and Phortse.
The economy and heritage of Khumbu Sherpa community has traditionally been heavily based on trade and livestock herding, but at present due to flow of international mountaineering expeditions since 1950’s with arrival of foreign trekkers, the Sherpa economy today is increasingly dependent on tourism.
Short Notes and history of Island Peak Climb:
First ascent of Island Peak in 1956 by German national Hans-Rudolf Von Gunten in 1956, been climbed by many mountaineers since then at present one of most popular trekking peaks of Nepal, as well around whole Himalaya region.
The mountain named as Island Peak in 1953 by team members of British
Mt. Everest Expedition, due to its location as it appears like an Island in a sea of ice when viewed from Dingboche.
The peak later renamed in 1983 to Imja-Tse the original local name, but Island Peak remains the popular choice and the most accessible and easier route from
North Ridge with grade as PD +; with glacier/scramble of moraine and ice, every year many groups of foreigners make it for Island Peak Climb.
A perfect and ideal peak and suitable for beginners as well for expert climbers as practice course before joining major expeditions around Himalaya.
CIMBING LIST FOR ISLAND PEAK CLIMB:
Plastic Boot a pair
Crampons a pair
Ice Axe one
Carabineer or Karabiner two each
Snow Gaiters a pair
Snow / Sun Glass one each
Warm Gloves a pair
Wind Proof Jacket & Trouser. a set each
Down Jacket one each
Down sleeping bags one each with inner linear
Main Ropes 200m ( 50m per person) as per the peak chosen
Snow Bar 2 / 4 pieces depending upon group size.
Ski Pole (optional) one each
Above items can be bought or hired in Kathmandu and at Namche Bazaar.
Important Information for flying to Lukla and back to Kathmandu:
At present most flight to Lukla and back operates from the district of Ramechap at Manthali small town airport, domestic airport been changed by Nepal Government Civil Aviation Authority.
The changes started since April and October 2019 onward, flights to Lukla resumes from Manthali town airport which is the main headquarter of Ramechap district Province No: 03 of Nepal.
Where drive from Kathmandu to reach at Manthali airstrip takes approx: 5 hrs which is about 154 k.m. approx 500 miles distance from the capital Kathmandu where drive takes you on B.P. Highway (a newly built tarmac road).
- Island Peak or Imjatse Himal one of most popular peaks for exciting climbing
- Adventure around high Khumbu within scenic Imjatse valley enclosed by peaks
- Stunning adventure to the top of Island Peak with incredible mountain panorama
- Exciting views on walks from green forest to remorseless fields of ice and glaciers
- Visit Sherpa villages and monasteries of great interesting cultures of Buddhism
- Island Peak Climb with visit of towering world highest Mt. Everest base camp